Very dark and gloomy - Our unit smelled like cigarettes.

With its studiously rustic and comfortably historic multi-season retreat identity, The Heidelberg Inn stands out as the most prominent structure in the quiet lakeside resort town of June Lake, CA. The imposing building is situated halfway up the hill from June Lake itself, and a scant two miles from historic sierra highway 395. (Be sure to enter from the back to avoid the many flights of stairs up the hill to the "main" entrance.) This resort is the premier partner along a sixteen mile loop that features 4 other scenic mountain lakes. The Heidelberg offers much more to the traveler looking for something upscale beyond the local fishing cabin- style accommodations or nearby skiing-oriented condominiums by offering a well-thought through multi-season resort lodge in a central location between Northern and Southern California--where natural wonders and fall colors abound. Originally architected as a hunting lodge and converted to hotel service before being converted to timesharing, The Heidelberg was popular with Hollywood’s well-heeled and famous in the ‘30s. (Annotated publicity photos adorn their great hall-chalet-style central commons.

Part of the Hedelberg’s charm comes from its small, seasoned staff. Manager Karen O’Keefe knows her resort and the June Lake community from four years of service there. Better still, she knows what vacationers want and need at her resort, and goes out of her way to provide for guests’ needs without being obtrusive about it. The Heidelberg offers a guest welcome session with hors d’ oeuvres and answers—and no sales pitch. Ask her or her staff for help, and our experience suggests that you’ll get it.

The Heidelberg manages to accommodate the plans of multiple vacation audiences without overemphasizing any single activity or venue. In our case, the resort was hosting the end of the fishing season for fall trout-fishing enthusiasts. (We thought we went there to fish but that activity turned out in second place to sightseeing with our wives and for shaking off the city by relaxing in the ambiance of The Heidelberg’s oversized central fireplace (complete with an upright stuffed bruin on guard overhead.) Obviously the Heidelberg expects you to find angling success on their waters, for they have thought of some service extras of their own to ensure that their fishing guests are especially well served. (For example, how many hotels sport a special access “fish cleaning room” for their guests—let alone one outfitted with double stainless steel sinks, cutting board, freezer and freezer bags, and knife sharpening stone?)

Two wind-sheltered year-round spas are adjacent to the Heidelberg's BBQ & patio area. One them juts forward just enough to afford a view of the town and the marina end of June Lake itself. (Perhaps a downside for some is the fact that the BBQs are placed on the deck outside the rooms--facing the lake, but in common for several rooms, possibly reducing privacy. ) Perhaps especially in winter, the on-site dry sauna downstairs will be welcomed as well. The "Tiger Bar” neighborhood watering hole and Sierra Inn supper club are neighbors across the street, and still more resort dining offerings await on the June Lake Loop, but the Heidelberg’s “mini” kitchen offers sufficient room and hardware to prepare meals for six. (A full-sized table with six chairs awaits those who prefer to cook in, as we did comfortably for several meals. There's a good-sized "mini- kitchen, but no oven.)

Providing tried and true red velvet-colored lodge-like accommodations for fishing enthusiasts like us is just one part of the Heidelberg’s story. Once the snow starts falling, The Heidelberg shifts into its ski resort mode and offers a comfortable alternative to the commonplace condos and ski season- sensitive pricing of the big-name destination. (Timesharers can motor 4-lane CA 395 less than a half-hour to famous Mammoth Lakes’ ski lifts for downhill runs that rate with some of the best in California.)

During summer weeks, a fuller range of water activities make a great diversion from the clamor of city life, without leaving all of the comfortable trappings behind (e.g., cable TV, VCR and DVD rentals.)

Perhaps the best treat provided by a Heidelberg arises from its proximity to numerous natural wonders—both the well-heralded and the unsung. Yosemite awaits nearby. (Yosemite’s Toulome Meadows is perhaps a ¾ hour drive.) But Ellery, Tioga, and Saddlebag lakes may divert you before you even reach Yosemite's Eastern entrance. (An attractive stream winds down 1000 feet in elevation from Saddlebag, meandering around a Forest Service campground. Each of these lakes could make for another easy fishing daytrip, and there are more picturesque offerings on the June Lake Loop itself.)

Perhaps the best treat provided by a Heidelberg arises from its proximity to numerous natural wonders—both the well-heralded and the unsung. Yosemite awaits nearby. (Yosemite’s Toulome Meadows is perhaps a ¾ hour drive.) But Ellery, Tioga, and Saddlebag lakes may divert you before you even reach Yosemite's Eastern entrance. (An attractive stream winds down 1000 feet in elevation from Saddlebag, meandering around a Forest Service campground. Each of these lakes could make for another easy fishing daytrip, and there are more picturesque offerings on the June Lake Loop itself.)

Heading a few miles North on 395 to Lee Vining instead of turning on toward Yosemite, one finds the Forest-Service managed Interpretation Center for Mono lake, which routinely startles its visitors with its tufa towers and volcanic vestiges jutting out of nowhere. After orienting yourself at the center, start touring at the Northern “boardwalk” entrance to the lake. Then double back to the Southern entrance for a modest walk through the “Tufas” trails. Be sure to bring the camera and prepare to take a lot of pictures—the tufa stalagmite towers reflecting back on Mono’s super—saline waters are an eerie but impressive site in their own right.

Meanwhile, the Sierra Nevadas themselves frame the entire area and form a quietly dominant charcoal grey presence. But even the mountains lift their gaze when their canyons and rock formations sprout cottonwood golds and aspen yellows for mid-late October’s fall color spectacular. (The ranger station on the way in to nearby Mammoth Lakes will offer you a Fall Color map pamphlet, and a local guide there can direct you to areas where the pros are snapping their best pictures.) Perhaps a 45-minute drive outside of Mammoth Lakes stands the Devil’s Postpile natural monument (fee required), featuring sheared vertical blackened basalt-like stone splinters that peel off of the hillside’s face like so many toothpicks. For another unusual alternative, the region’s abandoned Bodie Ghost Town also beckons as a U.S. Forest service-managed attraction.

For any of the nearby northern attractions—or for a counter-intuitive dining treat--be sure to plan at least one meal around the “Whoa Nellie Deli” at the Mobil station (that’s right, a gas station) at the 395/U.S. 20 junction toward Yosemite. (You can see it from highway 395.) Here you will find tasty gourmet offerings such as lobster taquitos or sherried mushroom soup tastefully presented, but without being blown away by the pricing. You can even buy a vintage bottle of wine at moderate prices and have the cashier open it for you and provide you with stemware for your meal there without corkage or setup fees—and then enjoy it all either inside or al fresco at well-kept tables provided for visitors . . .

Despite its dominating presence in June Lake itself, the Heidelberg isn't huge, and it isn't posh, but the upgraded furniture features full- suspension drawers in their living rooms. It's got plenty of tradition, but it's not tired. Rather, it's the kind of comfortable retreat that one chooses when one wants to enjoy nature and the great outdoors--and this area has plenty of greatness to pull you out of your rooms--and Karen and the Heidelberg itself will pull you back for another visit.

We are new owners here and have now stayed here twice. We love the cozy historical feel of this resort. The rooms have been recently updated and look very nice. The kitchen area is quite small but we managed to make some great dinners here. Loved using the jacuzzi every night after skiing.

The skiing is incredible here! No crowds!!! The people here are very friendly. We went to the annual St. Patrick's Day dinner at the community center and enjoyed meeting many of the June Lake residents. With so much snow, it is a shame that the skiing will end here on April 10th. Can't wait to return!

Fantastic staff wonderful old time lodge atmosphere. Skiing was excellent with NO crowds and friendly towns people too. We love this place and come every year if we can!

A NICE PLACE TO RELAX. WE STAYED HERE IN OCTOBER 2003. THE AREA IS VERY SCENIC WITH LOTS OF OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES. NOT MUCH NIGHTLIFE UNLESS YOU WANT TO DRIVE. THE ROOM WAS LARGE AND COMFORTABLE BUT SOME OF THE FIXTURES WERE DATED. THE INN HAS A DEFINITE HISTORIC LODGE AMBIANCE.