Hostal Las Cupulas

(November, 2008)

My husband, daughter and I just returned from a stay at the Hostal Las Cupulas.In booking this trip, we had hoped to stay at their sister hotel, Raintree’s Villa Vera Oaxaca (formerly known as Hostal Casa San Felipe) because of its location near the zocalo. However, we soon found that the zocalo is bustling and noisy so we were happy to be staying a short bus/taxi ride away in the relatively quiet neighborhood of San Felipe del Agua. We shared a spacious hotel unit which was delightfully decorated using local handicrafts. The unit was clean and comfortable, as were all of the facilities. Our only 'complaint' is that the only courtyard area is reserved for dining, and there is no place to relax outside. Hence 4 stars instead of 5. The staff at the hotel was very warm, friendly and helpful. We were happy to find the free use of a computer located in the lobby.

A taxi downtown cost around the equivalent of $4.00, but a bus goes by just steps from the Hostal every 10 minutes which will take you downtown for about $0.40 each. Be forewarned, though, that the bus coming back takes a circuitous route high up into the hills and on to an isolated dirt road before circling back to the Hostal. Consequently, we usually rode the bus into town and took a taxi home at night.

The city of Oaxaca is bustling with people and activities. The center of town, known as the zocalo, is ringed with restaurants and shops and vendors selling their handcrafted wares. These vendors will approach you as you walk around or sit at at an outdoor cafe (and sometimes even enter the restaurant!), but if you are not interested in buying from them a simple smile and "no, gracious" will send them on their way. You will likewise see people with their hand out on the streets, but the 'begging' is subtle and never pushy or intimidating. Our daughter kept a supply of 2 to 50 peso coins in her pockets - the equivalent of $0.02 to $0.50 - for such occasions.

The handicrafts include woven and beautifully embroidered fabrics, pottery, rugs, and Alebrijes, the colorful carved animals for which Oaxaca is known. Although you are expected to barter to a certain degree, we balanced the degree of poverty with the fine quality of the crafts and the fact that the asking prices were so reasonable to begin with and did not haggle too much.

There is much to do and see in the city of Oaxaca and the surrounding areas. A weeks stay only scratched the surface - I'm sure we will return someday.